Vintage stools from the 1950s through 1980s – practical seating and occasional furniture from when manufacturers built stools properly rather than as cheap afterthoughts. We source mid-century stools from makers like Ercol, G-Plan, and Scandinavian manufacturers who understood that a stool needed solid construction whether it was for a bar, kitchen counter, dressing table, or living room.
Each stool here has been professionally restored in our Devon workshop. Wooden frames are hand sanded to remove decades of wear, then finished with Danish oil or appropriate wax. Upholstered seats get assessed individually – original vinyl or fabric stays if it’s sound, replacements are used only when necessary. Swivel mechanisms are serviced where fitted, feet checked for stability, and any height adjustment mechanisms are cleaned and tested.
What we look for:
Solid construction that can take daily use – proper joinery in wooden stools, substantial steel in metal-framed examples, quality castors or feet that actually work. Materials chosen for longevity: solid timber rather than veneered chipboard, quality upholstery rather than foam that crumbles after a decade, metal that’s properly finished rather than cheap painted steel that rusts.
The best vintage stools show attention to detail: turned legs with clean profiles, stretchers positioned for comfortable footrests, seat heights that make sense ergonomically, proportions that suit their intended use.
Common types and uses:
Bar stools with higher seats (around 75cm height) for kitchen counters and home bars – some with backs and arms, others backless for tucking under counters. Swivel bases or fixed frames, footrests in wood, metal, or brass.
Kitchen stools at counter height (around 65cm seat height) for breakfast bars and kitchen islands. Often simpler construction than bar stools, designed for frequent use rather than statement pieces.
Dressing table stools – lower seats (around 45cm), often upholstered, sometimes with storage underneath. Made to pair with bedroom furniture, typically in matching woods and finishes.
Footstools and occasional stools – low pieces (30-40cm) for resting feet or occasional seating. Range from simple upholstered boxes to turned-leg wooden designs with padded tops.
Workshop and utility stools – adjustable height models, often with metal frames and wooden or vinyl tops. Built for practical use in studios, workshops, and offices.
Materials and construction:
Wooden stools typically in beech, oak, teak, or elm depending on maker and era. Better examples use solid timber throughout with proper joinery – mortise and tenon joints, turned legs and stretchers, structural integrity that’s lasted 50+ years.
Metal-framed stools in chrome-plated or painted steel. Quality chrome has held up better than cheap plating which pits and corrodes. Some combine metal frames with wooden seats, others are upholstered throughout.
Upholstery ranges from practical vinyl (common on kitchen and bar stools) to fabric on dressing table stools and footstools. Original vinyl can be remarkably durable; original fabric often needs replacing after decades of use.
Makers and styles:
Ercol produced characteristic Windsor-style bar stools and kitchen stools with stick spindles and solid elm seats. G-Plan made teak bar stools and dressing table stools matching their bedroom ranges. Scandinavian makers brought clean-lined designs in teak and beech.
Anonymous British and European manufacturers produced countless variations – some showing real quality and design merit, others purely functional. Industrial manufacturers made workshop stools built to withstand hard use.
Style varies from traditional Windsor-influenced designs to sleek mid-century modern forms, industrial workshop stools to Space Age moulded plastic examples.
Bar and kitchen stools:
The most common vintage stools you’ll find. Seat heights matter – bar stools (around 75cm) for higher counters, kitchen stools (around 65cm) for standard counter heights. Measure your counter height before buying – a 10cm mismatch makes stools unusable.
Backs provide comfort for extended sitting but mean stools don’t tuck away completely. Backless stools save space, work for quick perching. Swivel bases add convenience but need maintenance. Fixed frames are simpler, often more stable.
Footrests are essential for comfort – you need somewhere to rest your feet at these heights. Better stools have footrests positioned at comfortable heights (usually 25-30cm below seat). Wood, metal, brass, or stretchers between legs all work.
Dressing table and bedroom stools:
Lower seats designed to sit comfortably at dressing tables (which are typically lower than standard tables). Often upholstered for comfort during makeup application or dressing. Some with storage underneath – lift-up tops revealing compartments for cosmetics or accessories.
Usually made to match bedroom furniture ranges – teak stools for teak dressing tables, oak for oak sets. The better examples show quality joinery and materials matching the furniture they were designed to complement.
Footstools and occasional pieces:
Low stools (30-40cm height) for resting feet while sitting or occasional extra seating. Range from simple upholstered boxes to more elaborate designs with turned legs and decorative details.
Some mid-century footstools are surprisingly sculptural – Danish designs with organic forms, British examples with clean lines and quality timber. Not just functional but attractive pieces of furniture in their own right.
Condition considerations:
Stools often show hard use – they get moved frequently, sat on repeatedly, sometimes used as step stools (not recommended but it happens). Wooden seats develop wear patterns. Upholstery shows age from constant friction. Feet wear down from being dragged across floors.
Swivel mechanisms can seize up or become loose. Height adjustment mechanisms (on workshop stools) sometimes fail. Footrests show wear – darkening, smoothing, sometimes loosening at joints. Stretchers between legs take foot pressure and can weaken.
We’re transparent about condition. If upholstery is replacement, if mechanisms have been serviced or replaced, if feet are uneven from wear, if there are repairs to joints or frames – you’ll know.
Restoration approach:
Wooden stools get hand sanded to remove wear and grime, then finished with Danish oil or wax depending on timber and original finish. Turned details and joinery require careful sanding to maintain crisp profiles. Upholstery decisions depend on condition and use. Bar and kitchen stools often benefit from practical vinyl that cleans easily. Dressing table stools might get fabric matching period aesthetics. We’re transparent about whether upholstery is original or replacement.
Mechanisms get serviced – swivel plates cleaned and lubricated, height adjustments tested and repaired where possible. Feet are evened out if wear has created wobble. Joints are reglued where necessary using appropriate techniques for the construction method.
Modern use:
Vintage bar and kitchen stools work perfectly well at modern counters – just check height compatibility. Quality construction and timeless designs mean they fit contemporary kitchens while adding character mass-produced modern stools lack.
Dressing table stools work as bedroom seating, vanity stools, or occasional seats. Footstools serve their original purpose or work as extra seating, coffee table companions, or children’s seats.
The durability of properly made vintage stools beats modern equivalents at similar prices – solid timber versus hollow metal tubes, proper upholstery versus thin foam, construction that’s proved itself over 50+ years.
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